Group 22 - Beginner Cruiser Motorcycle: Product Disection Plan

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Day 1:The Rear End of the Bike

Step 1:

Seat Attached to frame

Seat Removed from frame

Begin by removing the seat from the frame. There are 3 bolts attached to the seat that come down through a bracket and the frame and is fastened by 3 separate nuts. The middle nut is unscrewed using a ¾ inch wrench while the remaining 2 nuts are unscrewed using ¼ inch wrench. After the nuts are removed the seat can be lifted off the frame and the bracket removed.

Part List:

• Seat
• Bracket
  • 2, ¼ inch nuts
  • ¾ inch nut
    

Difficulty: 1

Step 2:

Back fender attached to frame

Inside of the Back fender

Back fender attached to frame

The fender is to be taken off next. To accomplish this there are 4 9mm nuts and bolts holding the fender onto the frame, 2 bolts on each side. Both sets of bolts have a metal bracket that sits between the fender and the nuts. The nuts are removed by using a 9mm socket wrench. When the nuts are removed the brackets slide off, the bolts are removed, and the fender can be lifted off the frame.

Part List:

• Fender
• 2 Brackets
  • 4, 9mm bolt
  • 4, 9mm nuts

Difficulty: 1

Step 3:

Axel

The wheel is removed next. Remove the chain from the drive gear located on the tire. The chain won’t be removed from the assembly since it is still attached to the engine. Loosen the nut on the end of the axle by using a 12mm socket wrench on one end while using a 12mm wrench on the other to hold it in place. There are two washers attached to the axle that have a bolt attached to it perpendicular to the axle. They are located on either side of the tire and each is attached to the frame by 9mm nuts. Remove these nuts by using a 9mm socket wrench. The axle can now slide out of the tire. The axle has two cylinder spacers that will come off with the axle.

Part List

• Axel
  • Nut
    • 2 thick cylinder washers
    • 2 bolt-washers
    • 2 washer
    • 2 nuts

Difficulty: 4

Step 4:

The rear wheel removed from the bike

With the axle out, the wheel is still attached to the frame due to a bracket that is attached to the drum brake and frame. Remove the nut and bolt holding the bracket to the frame by using a 10mm socket wrench. The brake line runs from the drum brake to the handle. Remove the handle from the bike by loosening the bolts that hold together the top and bottom bracket (See step 10). Zip-ties also hold the brake line to the frame in 3 locations. Cut the zip ties with clippers. The wheel and brake system can now be taken off the frame.

Difficulty: 2

Step 5:

wheel and drive gear

The drum brake can slide out of the wheel. On the other side of the wheel there is the drive gear. This is held onto the wheel by 4 bolts and nuts. To remove these, use a 9mm wrench.

Part List

• Tire
  • Wheel barrings
  • Valve cap
• Drive Gear
  • 4 9mm bolts
  • 4 washers
  • 4 nuts

Difficulty: 1

Day 2: Brake System

Step 7:

Remove nut on brake line to free the drum brake from the handle and break line.

Difficulty: 1

Step 6:

Bracket attached to drum brake

Bracket removed

Remove bracket from the drum brake by using a 10mm socket wrench on the bolt fastening it. There is a pin that has to be pulled out from the bolt before it can be unfastened.

Part List:

• Bracket
  • 10 mm bolt
    • Pin
    • 3 washers

Difficulty: 1

Step 8:

Brake line removed

Drum Brake with coiled spring

Drum Brake

On the top side of the drum brake there is a bolt that holds together a bracket which covers a coiled spring. The bolt is removed by using a 10mm wrench. By twisting the bracket clockwise the spring unclamps from the bracket freeing it from the drum brake. There is a tabbed circle that can now be taken off along with the coiled spring.

Part List:

• Bracket
• Tabbed circle
• Coiled Spring
• 10mm bolt
  • 3 washers
  • Nut

Difficulty: 2

Step 9:

Inside Drum Brake

On the bottom side of drum brake, the shoes are held together by 2 springs. Needle nose pliers are used to loosen the springs from the system. With the springs are off the brake shoes can now be taken off along with the metal cylinder pin that separates the shoes and hold it to the drum brake.

Part List:

• 2 Springs
• 2 brake shoes
• Metal cylinder pin

Difficulty: 3

Step 10:

Hand Brake and Brake line

Now that the drum brake has been completely dissected. We moved on to the hand brake and brake line. The hand brake consisted of 3 parts; the top bracket, bottom bracket and the handle. The top and bottom bracket can be separated by removing the 2 bolts with a 9mm wrench. The handle and the top bracket can be separated by using a Phillips head screw driver and remove the single screw. After they are apart the brake line is no longer pinched to the system and can be removed.

Part List:

• Top bracket
• Bottom bracket
• Handle
• 2 9mm bolts
• Screw
  • Nut
  • 2 washers

Difficulty: 3

Step 11:

Kick Stand

Kick Stand

Remove and dissect the kick stand. Use needle nose pliers to assist in taking of the spring that connects the stand to the frame. After the spring is removed use 10mm socket wrench to unfasten the bolt that attaches the stand to the frame. Remove the stand from the frame.

Part List:

• Stand
• Spring
• 10mm bolt
  • Nut

Difficulty: 3

Day Three: Dissection of the Engine

Step 1:

Frame

Engine Removal: We removed the entire engine off of the bike frame using a 12mm socket wrench and regular 12mm wrench. The engine was connected only using 4 screws and bolts.

Part list

• Engine
  • 4 – 12mm screws
  • 4 – 12mm bolts

Difficulty 3

Step 2:

Chain and Pull-Start

Large and Small Chain removal: After removing the engine from the frame, our group needed to remove the chains to continue with disassembly. We used a pair of needle nosed pliers and a flat head screw driver to remove the master link from the chain to remove both small and large chains.

Part list

• Small and Large Chain

Difficulty 3

Step 3:

Disassemble Pull Start

Removal of the Pull Start Assembly: After the chains were removed, our group removed the pull start assembly located on the right side of the motorcycle using an 8mm wrench.

Part list

• Pull start assembly
  • 3 – 8mm screws
  • 3 washers
  • Large Spring
  • 2 Small Springs

Difficulty 4

Step 4:

Clutch

Removing the Clutch from the Engine: To remove the clutch we had to use a ¾ inch socket on the fly wheel side of the motorcycle, and use a 12mm socket on the chain side of the motorcycle. During this step we could not find a socket wrench for the ¾ inch socket, and used a pair of vice grips to hold the bolt in place while we unscrewed the bolt using the 12mm socket wrench.

Part list

• Clutch
  • 1 – ¾ inch bolt
  • 1 – 12mm long screw
  • 4 – 12mm screws
  • 4 – 12mm nuts

Difficulty 4

Step 5:

Fuel Tank

Removing the Fuel Tank: The fuel tank was removed from the top of the engine using a 10mm socket wrench. Two of the nuts were located towards the back of the fuel tank, while one was located near the front.

Part list

• 3 – 10mm nuts

Difficulty 1

Step 6:

Flywheel cover

Remove the Fly Wheel Cover: Removed the fly wheel cover from the rest of the engine using a 10mm socket wrench. This part was hard to get off because of high tension on the bolts.

Part list

• 4 – 10mm bolts

Difficulty 4

Step 7:

Heatshield

Remove the Heat Shield: Using a 10mm wrench, we removed the heat shield.

Part list

• 3 – 10mm bolts

Difficulty 2

Step 8:

Remove the Fuel and vapor line: Removed the fuel and vapor line to provide easier access to the engine. We removed these parts by hand.

Part list

• Fuel Line
• Vapor Line

Difficulty 1

Step 9:

Air Filter Cover

Air Filter

Remove Air Filter Cover: By hand our group removed the plastic air filter cover by unscrewing a wing nut on the top of the cover, and two other wing nuts on the underside of the cover.

Part list

• 3 Wing nuts
• Plastic Air Filter Cover

Difficulty 1

Step 10:

Air Intake

Remove the Air Intake: Using a 12mm wrench, we removed the air intake from the carburetor located on the engine block.

Part list

• 2 – 12mm nuts

Difficulty 2

Step 11:

Removal of Gasket 1: After removing the air intake we removed the gasket that sat between the intake and the carburetor.

Part list

• Gasket #1

Difficulty 1

Step 12:

Throttle

Removing the Throttle: Using needle nose pliers, we remove 2 springs that connected the throttle to the connecting rod as well as a screw that controlled the amount of gasoline to flow into the engine.

Part list

• 2 springs
• Connecting rod
• Phillips head screw

Difficulty 3

Step 13:

Removing the Carburetor and Gasket 2: Next, the group removed the carburetor from the engine block and then removed the gasket separating them by hand.

Difficulty 4

Step 14:

Removing springs from the Governor Assembly: Using needle nose pliers we removed springs 10mm from the Governor Assembly

Part list

• Spring
• 10mm

Difficulty 3

Step 15:

Magneto

Removal of the Magneto and grounding wire: Using a 12mm wrench, we removed the magneto from the fly wheel, and then removed the grounding wire by hand.

Part list

• 2 – 12mm bolts
• Grounding wire

Difficulty 2

Step 16:

exhaust

Removing the Exhaust: Next, we removed the exhaust from the engine using a 12mm socket wrench.

Part list

• 2 – 12mm bolts

Difficulty 2

Step 17:

Removal of the spark plug: After disconnecting the magneto and the grounding wire, we removed the spark plug from the engine by hand.

Part list

• Spark Plug

Difficulty 1

Step 18:

Removal of the Valve Train Cover: Next, our group took off the valve train cover using an 8mm socket wrench.

Part list

• 4 – 8mm bolts

Difficulty 5

Day 4: Dissection of the Engine

Step 19:

Inner workings of the engine

Removing the Train Cover: We removed the train cover using a 10mm socket wrench. We had to use a lot of force because this part of the engine is not intentionally supposed to come apart unless there is maintenance that needs to be done to it. We had to use 2 flat head screw drivers to increase our leverage on the cover to remove it from the engine.

Part list

• 6 – 10mm screws

Difficulty 5

Step 20:

Flywheel

Removal of the Fly Wheel: We tried to remove the fly wheel with a 19mm socket wrench, succeeded in removing the nut, but could not remove the rest of the fly wheel because of stripped Phillips head screws. We were able to take off the plastic and metal caps on the end of the fly wheel using a flat head screw driver and our hands.

Part list

• 19mm nut
• Plastic cover
• Metal cover

Difficulty 5

Step 21:

Springs and rods

Removal of the Motor Head: We used a 10mm socket wrench to remove the head of the motor. In doing so we revealed the springs and rods that the piston pushed when combustion occurs in the engine.

Part list

• 4 – 10mm screws

Difficulty 4

Step 22:

Piston

Removal of the Piston Cover: After the motor head was gone, the group removed the piston cover using a 12mm socket wrench. This released the push rods from the springs and revealed the piston used in our 169cc engine.

Part list

• 4 – 12mm screws
• 2 push rods

Difficulty 4

Causes For Corrective Action

There was no real cause for any corrective action during the disassembly of the product. Our management plans worked fairly well due to the fact that all group members have similar schedules and were able to attend meetings regularly. Our group met twice a week every time the dissection lab has been open. By designating the front half of the bike to Group 22, we were able to remain on schedule easily. Each member handled their responsibilities with precision. By each member being present and on task we were able to complete each step in a timely fashion. Our group did not stray from the time line established on the Gantt chart. One challenge we approached was being unsure where to place our disassembled portions of the bike. Due to the congestion of the dissection lab space was severely limited. However, that was resolved by making use of space under a counter in a corner of the dissection lab. With this space we were able to stack all of our remaining materials in an “out of the way” location in an attempt to prevent any potential accidental tampering with the product.

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