Difference between revisions of "Group 26 - Compaq Printer"

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(Part Table)
(Part Table)
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| align="center" | ABS Plastic because it is durable and when it is thick it can deal with a lot of abuse and punishment
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| align="center" | Metal
| align="center" | To hold all the parts together along with screws
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| align="center" | Runs off power cord to run the rollers and gear head
| align="center" | To hold all parts in one area and keep them from moving in ways they aren't supposed to
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| align="center" | Injection Molded
 
| align="center" | Injection Molded
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Revision as of 12:11, 4 December 2008

Contents

Executive Summary

Our group project was the Compaq IJ600 color printer. We were assigned to disassemble, analyze, and reassemble the printer and all its respective components. Using the information we obtained from this entire process, our task was to implement some design enhancements and possible improvements to the printer. We meticulously recorded every piece that was removed and documented the few tools that were used. The product was an inkjet printer that was relatively easy to disassemble, though we ran into some problems.


Printa.jpg

Introduction

The product our group was tasked with disassembling was a simple desktop printer. The Compaq IJ 600 is single function inkjet printer. The intended use was for common household medium to low volume printing. The IJ 600 can print in both color and black ink due to separate cartridges. The Compaq IJ 600 has a 100-sheet paper tray for storing paper for print jobs. It can be connected to the computer via a Parallel port or a USB B-type connection.

Work for the project was divided evenly among group members.

Group Leader- Sameer Parikh

Disassembly/Assembly Team- Kevin King, Casey Jacobs

Presentation/Wiki Team- Chris Martensen, Sameer Parikh, Johnnie Pacifico, Casey Jacobs

Presenters- Kevin King, Johnnie Pacifico

CAD Drawing- Kevin King


Group Members

Sameer Parikh

Kevin King

Casey Jacobs

Chris Martensen

Johnnie Pacifico

Before Disassembly

The Compaq Model IJ600 printer was in fairly good condition when we received it. The top casing had a broken knob on one end, but didn’t have a substantial effect on the printer’s appearance or the operation of the casing. It was a little dirty, but that was expected considering how long ago the printer was made. When we opened it up, it looked as if the dissection would be difficult. However upon further examination, the weird shapes of the parts created the illusion that there were more components than there actually were. There ended up being more screws than anything else. All in all, the printer consisted of about 25 to 30 screws and about 20 actual parts. It seems there are only three or four different types of materials used. The metal brace located inside towards the back was aluminum. The paper rollers and some screws seemed to be manufactured out of steel. Other screws, which varied in color, could have been made out of bronze. A belt that was part of the ink cartridge moving system was made out of rubber. The rest of the components, including the casing, trays, ink cartridges, ink cartridge holder, gears, and other little minor components were made out of plastic.

Although the printer did not function when we received it due to the missing power cord, it was easy to see how the printer would work when we removed the top casing. First, the printer’s circuit boards receive information from the computer about the image or text to be printer. The circuit boards then distribute information to the appropriate motors, gears, and the ink cartridges. The first action is the translation from electrical energy to mechanical energy by the first of two paper rollers. When it is time to print, the first roller catches the paper from the top loading section and pushes it through to the second roller. The second roller then grabs the paper and pushes it through underneath the ink cartridges in spurts. Simultaneously, the ink cartridges and the motors moving them process the information about the image to be printed. The motors move the ink cartridges back and forth as they expend little droplets of ink on the page in order to create the desired image. When a line of certain width has the correct ink pattern and density, the motor connected to the roller moves the paper just enough so that the ink cartridges can start printing the next line. This process continues until the entire image is correctly mirrored on the paper. Finally, the roller pushes the finished document out to the tray in the front of the printer.


Disassembly

Disassembly Process Table

Step Process Tool Used Difficulty
1 Remove 7 Phillips-head screws Phillips-head Screwdriver Easy, 1 Screw Quite Difficult
2 Removed Rip Fence Bolt to Saw Blade Locking Lever By Hand Easy
3 Removed Removed Dust Blower Angle off of Dust Blower By Hand Easy
4 Removed Dust Blower and Rip Fence off of Casing By Hand Easy
5 Removed Rip Fence off of Casing By Hand Easy
6 Removed Plastic Blade Guard off of Casing By Hand Easy
7 Removed Casing off of Casing Philips-head Screwdriver Moderately Easy
8 Removed Gel Max Comfort Grip off of Casing By Hand Easy
9 Removed Shoe Plate Locking Gear off of Casing By Hand Easy
10 Removed Shoe Plate Locking Knob off of Casing By Hand Easy
11 Removed Trigger Switch off of Casing By Hand Easy
12 Removed Lock on Button off of Trigger Switch By Hand Easy
13 Removed Lock Spring off of Lock on Button Flat-head Screwdriver Easy
14 Removed Plastic Lock Washers off of Lock on Button Flat Head Screwdriver Moderately Difficult
15 Removed Switch Breaker off of Trigger Switch By Hand Easy
16 Removed 2 Cord Clamp Screws off of Cord Clamp off of Casing Phillips-head Screwdriver Easy
17 Removed Red Motor Connecting Wire off of Spring Loaded Graphite By Hand Easy
18 Removed Black Motor Connecting Wire from Spring Loaded Graphite By Hand Easy
19 Disassembled Spring Loaded Graphite Internals By Hand Easy
20 Removed Motor Screw From Casing Philips-head Screwdriver Easy
21 Removed Red Motor Connecting Wire From Armature By Hand Easy
22 Removed Black Motor Connecting Wire from Armature By Hand Easy
23 Removed Metal Gear From 1/4in. Plate By Hand Easy
24 Removed 1/4in. Metal Plate from Armature Shaft With Rotar By Hand Easy
25 Removed Small Metal Plate off of Armature Shaft With Rotar By Hand Easy
26 Removed Linear Oscillator from Metal Gear By Hand Easy
27 Removed Washer off of Gear from Metal Gear By Hand Easy
28 Removed Cylindrical Slider from Linear Oscillator By Hand Easy


After Disassembly

Part Table

Part # Part Name Quantity Material and Reason for Choice of Material Function Manufacturing Process Image
1 Cover Screws 4 Steel Holds the cover in place so that the parts inside can work in order Machined
Cover screws.jpg
2 Clips 4 Plastic Lets the paper flow easier from the start to the end. Machined
Clips 1.jpg
3 Ink Cartridge Holder 1 Plastic To hold the cartridge in place. Molded then Machined, and placed by hand
008.jpg
4 Top Roller 1 Plastic and metal for springs Moves the paper from tray towards the ink cartridge Injection Molded
037.jpg
5 Bottom Roller 1 Metal and rubber Rolls with the help of the motor and brings the paper out with ease. Injection Molded
033.jpg
6 Motherboard 1 Computer material Takes information from the printer and prints off onto a paper. Injection Molded, Machined
7 Gear Head 1 Metal and plastic Turns all the rollers via a motor Machined and Hand Processed
035.jpg
8 Motor 1 Metal Runs off power cord to run the rollers and gear head Injection Molded
044.jpg
9 Plastic Blade Guard 1 Plastic because it is a part you look through to see the blade and to protect a persons hand from the blade To guard the front of the blade so nothing hits the blade that is not supposed to to cover an area to make it inaccessible to hands and fingers Injection Molded
Plastic blade guard.jpg
10 Gel-max Comfort Grip 1 Gel because it gives and helps absorb the vibrations of the jigsaw To comfort the hands of user To cover and area where the users hands would be Manufactured
Gel-max comfort grip.jpg
11 Shoe Plate Locking Gear 1 Plastic because it is cheap and easy to make and the part does not take much punishment The person spins it to lock the rip fence in place at a certain angle It is a gear with teeth to turn another gear locking the rip fence Injection Molded
Shoe plate locking gear.jpg
12 Shoe Plate Locking Knob 1 Plastic because it is cheap and easy to make and the part does not take much punishment The person turns the knob with their fingers to lock the rip fence in place It is a gear and knob with teeth to turn another gear to lock the rip fence in place Injection Molded
Shoe plate locking knob.jpg
13 Trigger Switch Component 1 Plastic, Copper, Steel, Aluminum because all these are need to get current to flow through it into the motor To control rate of flow of current to the motor It is made so there is a constant flow and path of a certain amount of current to the motor Manufactured
Trigger switch.jpg
14 Lock on Button 1 Plastic because it is cheap and easy to make and the part does not take much punishment It locks the trigger so that it cannot turn the engine on It has two sides so it can be pressed and a small dash in the middle so it can block the trigger Injection Molded
Lock on button.jpg
15 Lock Spring 1 Steel to make a durable and strong spring It helps make moving the locking trigger easier It is made in the spring shape to force an object in one direction Manufactured
Lock on spring.jpg
16 Plastic Lock Washers 2 Plastic because they do not get much force on them and it is cheap to make It is to be put on either side of the spring and holding it there It is made to hold the spring so it will not slip and be wide enough so all the force will be transfered Injection Molded
Lock on plastic washers.jpg
17 Switch Breaker 1 Aluminum because it is conductive to metal and will melt breaking the circuit if to much current flows through A circuit breaker that causes the jigsaw to stop working of too much current starts to flow through it It is cheap and melts at relatively low temperatures and can handle current going through it Machined
Switch breaker.jpg
18 Cord Clamp Screws 2 Steel because they need to be durable and withstand the torque and shear force To push down on the cord clamp to hold the cord in the casing It was made to pull the cord clamp against the cord Machined
Cord clamp screws.jpg
19 Cord Clamp 1 Steel because it needs to be strong and is pushed against things The screws push on it and then it in turn pushes on the cord to keep it in the casing it was made that way to push evenly on the cord and near flat to save on manufacturing costs Injection Molded, Machined
Cord clamp.jpg
20 Red Motor-connecting Wire 1 Rubber and Copper which are great insulating and conducting properties It conducts electricity from the trigger to the motor It is made to conduct electricity as efficiently as possible and the rubber to insulate it Manufactured
Red wire.jpg
21 Black Motor-connecting Wire 1 Rubber and Copper which are great insulating and conducting properties It conducts electricity from the trigger to the motor It is made to conduct electricity as efficiently as possible and the rubber to insulate it Manufactured
Black wire.jpg
22 Spring Loaded Brushes 2 Plastic, Copper, Graphite because they are what is used for a AC to DC motor It changes electricity from AC to DC It is made because those materials are needed for the translation of AC to DC Manufactured
Spring loaded brushes.jpg
23 Motor Screw 1 Steel because of high stress and torque put on it It helps hold the motor to the casing It pulls the motor onto the casing and holds it there Machined
Motor screw.jpg
24 Armature 1 Steel, Copper, ABS Plastic to be durable and cheap This part is the inside of the motor and a fan to keep the sawdust away They are all made to do each job as efficiently as possible Machined
Armature 2.jpg
25 Metal Gear 1 Steel for it's durability It is turned by the motor and spins It is a gear and helps turn other parts of the jigsaw Machined
Metal gear.jpg
Part 27.jpg
26 1/4 Inch Metal Plate 1 Steel for it's durability Helps keep everything in place It was made thick and strong due the vibrations and forces that act upon it Machined
Metal plate.jpg
27 Small Metal Plate 1 Steel for durability To help hold everything in place Made thin because it vibrates and is used to protect the large plate from abrasion with a large amount of grease between each of them Machined
Small metal plate.jpg
28 Armature Shaft with Rotor 1 Steel, Copper, ABS Plastic, Tape Part of the motor that alternates to turn the inside causing the rotation Made to turn electrical energy into mechanical energy Machined
Armature.jpg
29 Linear Oscillator 1 Steel for durability Oscilates up and down moving the blade In this form it is highly durable and can move easily Machined
Linear.jpg
Part31.jpg
30 Washer off of Gear 1 Steel for durability Moves inside the hole on the linear oscillator and pushes on it in a vertical direction It is formed this way to fit in the linear oscillators hole and have the least amount of friction possible Machined
Washer off of gear.jpg
Part32.jpg
31 Cylindrical Slider 2 Steel for durability This is to align the linear oscillator to keep it in line and moving up and down It is made to be simple and cheap but still strong enough to deal with the friction Machined
Cylindrical slider.jpg
Part33.jpg
32 Blade Changing Piece 1 Plastic for durability and to keep cost down It pulls up the springs and the blade holder to allow the old blade to fall out and put the new blade in It just needs to endure a momentary pull of the finger so it is not thick or strong Injection Molded
Blade changing piece.jpg
33 Blade Changing Component 1 Steel for durability It holds the springs and blade changing piece and pushes down on the blade to keep it in place with help of the springs It is built for the least use of materials and just enough to do what it needs to do. Cast
Blade changing component.jpg
34 Blade Changing Spring 2 Steel for durability It pulls the blade changing component onto the blade holding it in place It is built to have a large amount of force behind it to endure the fast rate at which the blade is moved Manufactured
Blade changing spring.jpg
35 Alan Wrench Screw 2 Steel for durability It holds all of the blade changing components in place It is built to pull to objects together Machined
Alan wrench screw.jpg
36 Felt Piece 1 Felt for shock absorption This to absorb any impact the motor may hit linear oscillator wiht It is minimally built to cover the area's that may be hit Manufactured
Felt piece.jpg
Part39.jpg

Reassembly

Reassembly Process Table

Step Process Tool Used Difficulty
1 Remove 7 Phillips-head screws Phillips-head Screwdriver Easy, 1 Screw Quite Difficult
2 Removed Rip Fence Bolt to Saw Blade Locking Lever By Hand Easy
3 Removed Removed Dust Blower Angle off of Dust Blower By Hand Easy
4 Removed Dust Blower and Rip Fence off of Casing By Hand Easy
5 Removed Rip Fence off of Casing By Hand Easy
6 Removed Plastic Blade Guard off of Casing By Hand Easy
7 Removed Casing off of Casing Philips-head Screwdriver Moderately Easy
8 Removed Gel Max Comfort Grip off of Casing By Hand Easy
9 Removed Shoe Plate Locking Gear off of Casing By Hand Easy
10 Removed Shoe Plate Locking Knob off of Casing By Hand Easy
11 Removed Trigger Switch off of Casing By Hand Easy
12 Removed Lock on Button off of Trigger Switch By Hand Easy
13 Removed Lock Spring off of Lock on Button Flat-head Screwdriver Easy
14 Removed Plastic Lock Washers off of Lock on Button Flat Head Screwdriver Moderately Difficult
15 Removed Switch Breaker off of Trigger Switch By Hand Easy
16 Removed 2 Cord Clamp Screws off of Cord Clamp off of Casing Phillips-head Screwdriver Easy
17 Removed Red Motor Connecting Wire off of Spring Loaded Graphite By Hand Easy
18 Removed Black Motor Connecting Wire from Spring Loaded Graphite By Hand Easy
19 Disassembled Spring Loaded Graphite Internals By Hand Easy
20 Removed Motor Screw From Casing Philips-head Screwdriver Easy
21 Removed Red Motor Connecting Wire From Armature By Hand Easy
22 Removed Black Motor Connecting Wire from Armature By Hand Easy
23 Removed Metal Gear From 1/4in. Plate By Hand Easy
24 Removed 1/4in. Metal Plate from Armature Shaft With Rotar By Hand Easy
25 Removed Small Metal Plate off of Armature Shaft With Rotar By Hand Easy
26 Removed Linear Oscillator from Metal Gear By Hand Easy
27 Removed Washer off of Gear from Metal Gear By Hand Easy
28 Removed Cylindrical Slider from Linear Oscillator By Hand Easy

After Reassembly

Since we were not given a power cord, we could not test whether the printer worked initially or after reassembly. The product was designed very well for its purpose. However, we still came up with a few improvements that could be made to the printer. For starters, there were many different types of screws. If they were all the same type of screw, assembly and disassembly would be easier and would only require one tool instead of several screw drivers. Second, it seemed like there was a lot of unnecessary space that wasn’t utilized by parts or components. Minimizing space would make for less material needed, and the product would also be smaller in size and not as bulky. A third improvement would be to implement automatic reverse side printing to be able to print double sided pages and save paper. Our last improvement we considered was to change from ink jet printing to laser jet printing. Ink jet is cheaper initially, but laser jet printing is faster, cheaper in the long run, and prints better quality. Overall, the task of creating a simple, cheap, household printer was accomplished by Compaq.

References