Group 22 - Beginner Cruiser Motorcycle

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Beginner Cruiser Motorcycle

Group 22 and Group 21 are going to disassemble a beginner Cruiser Motorcycle. Our group (Group 22) will disassemble the back half of the motorcycle while Group 21 will disassemble the front half of the motorcycle. Both groups will work simultaneously on the engine ensuring that it is done carefully and that it only needs to be reassembled once.

Gate 1: Request for Proposal

The following link will direct you to Group 22's Gate 1 page which includes:

  • Group information
  • Request for proposal
  • Gantt Chart
  • Initial Product Assessment

Request for Proposal

Gate 2: Preliminary Product Review

The following link will direct you to Group 22's Product Dissection Plan which inludes:

  • Step By Step dissassembly of:
  • The Rear End of Bike
  • The Brake System
  • The Engine Block
  • Difficulty of each step
  • Causes for Corrective Action

Product Dissection Plan

*For Front end Dissassembly see Group 21

Gate 3: Coordination Review

The following link will direct you to Group 22's Coordination Review which includes:

  • Component Summary
  • Component Summary Chart
  • Detailed Component Summary
  • Design Revision
  • Solid Model
  • Engineering Analysis

Coordination Review

Critical Project Review

Reassembly Plan

Rear End Reassembly:

Kick Stand:
Using needle nose pliers to aid in fastening the Kick Stand to the frame. Secure the kick stand to the frame using a 10mm socket wrench.
Kick Stand

Place the seat back on to its position on the frame. Screw in the two 1/4inch nuts and the middle 3/4inch nut using their respective wrenches.
Seat Attached to frame
Bottom of the seat frame

Rear Fender:
Place the fender in its designated location under the seat on the bike. There are 4 9mm nuts that need to be tightened using a 9mm socket wrench and two bolts two either side on the interior of the fender. A metal bracket must be placed on the interior of the fender between the bolts and the fender itself.
Metal bracket: Inside of the Back fender
Back fender attached to frame

Hand Brake and brake line:
Place the break line in between the handle and the top bracket. The handle and the top bracket of the hand brake can be assembled using a Phillips head screw driver on the single screw. The top and bottom bracket are assembled by using a 9mm wrench on the two bolts. Once the front portion of the bike is assembled this assembly will be secured to the handle bars.
Hand Brake and Brake line

Brake System:
Turn the bolt counterclockwise to clamp the spring. Secure the bracket using a 10mm wrench on the bolt. When placing the drum brake back on the bike the brake line must be aligned with the space in the bracket. Attach a black bracket to the drum brake using a 10mm socket wrench. Insert a pin through the bolt to secure the bolt in place.
Drum Brake
Coiled spring attached
Gold Bracket attached
Bracket and Brake Line attached

Secure the drive gear to the wheel using a 9mm wrench on the 4 bolts. The wheel must be placed in place towards the bottom of the frame. Prior to placing the axle through the drum brake must be realigned with the wheel. Once the wheel and the drum brake are properly aligned with the frame, place the axle through it and the frame. Place a nut on the end of the axle using a 12mm socket wrench. There are two nuts that need to be attached using a 9mm socket wrench. These nuts hold two washers into the frame.
wheel and drive gear
Drum Brake aligned with the wheel
Axel through brake and wheel


Piston cover and Motor Head:
Place the push rods into their designated springs. Using a 12mm socket wrench, secure the piston cover. The motor head must be aligned with the push rods so that they push each the rocker arms found in the motor head.. Using a 10mm socket wrench, secure the motor head.
Push Rods
Push Rods placed in their designated springs
Motor head and Rockers *Push rods must be aligned with their respective rocker
Train Covers:
Firmly secure the train cover to the engine using a 10mm socket wrench on 6 screws. The Valve Train Cover must be secured using an 8mm socket wrench on a set of 4 bolts.
Train Cover

Spark Plug and Magneto:
Place the spark plug back in its designated location. Place a spacer between the magneto to assure that it is not too close to the flywheel or the flywheel magnet. Using a 12mm wrench on 2 bolts secure the two the flywheel making sure to leave the grounding wire exposed. Place the rubber plug back onto the spark plug.
Spark Plug
Location of Spark Plug *above Train Cover
Magneto with respect to the Engine and Spark plug in Rubber Plug
Carburetor, Gasket and Governor Assembly:
Using needle nose pliers insert the springs into the assembly. The governor arm must be place on the plastic axle. Fit the carburetor onto the two designated bolts on the engine block. Slide gasket into place at the end of the carburetor.
Carburetor Cover
2 Bolts Designated for Carburetor
Carburetor in place and Covered
Using needle nose pliers on two springs place them onto the connecting rod. Insert the screw which is used as a regulator. Place another gasket between the throttle and the air intake.
Throttle attached to spring
Throttle in place *Notice location relative to spark plug
Attach the exhaust and the muffler using a 12mm socket wrench on two bolts.
Exhaust to the top-left of the valve train
Air Filter and Cover:
Place the air intake on top of the carburetor now attached to the engine block. Using a 12mm wrench, secure the two 12mm nuts to the engine block. Place the plastic air filter cover over the air filter. Secure the cover by placing two wing nuts on the underside of the cover and one wing nut on the top of the cover.
Air Filter and Cover
Air Filter in place
Air intake covered and in place to the right of the exhaust
Heat plate:
Line the three designated holes up with the heat shield. Using a 10mm socket wrench, secure the heat shield to the engine block.
Heat shield in place toward the bottom of the Engine Block

Flywheel Cover:
Attach the fly wheel cover by aligning the 4 holes on the engine block with the 4 holes on the flywheel cover. Using a 10mm socket wrench, secure the bolts into the holes.
Fly Wheel Cover
Fly Wheel Cover in place
Pull Start Assembly:
Securely coil the long spring around the inner wheel of the assembly. The spring should fall within a groove designated for it. The pull rope must then wrap around this wheel. The rope must be wound around the inner wheel of the main housing. Pull the rope to tighten the spring. This allows the spring to reach a maximum tension. Rewind the rope around the main housing so it retracts when it is pulled. Once the pull start is reassembled attach the assembly to the flywheel cover using three 8mm bolts and an 8mm socket wrench.
Long Spring
Long Spring and inner wheel
Pull Rope and main housing *portion of inner wheel at the bottom of picture
Pull Start Assembly attached to the flywheel cover
Fuel Tank:
Secure the fuel tank using a 10mm socket wrench. Two nuts on the back of the fuel tank and one nut near the front.
Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank mounted on Engine Block
Clutch and Bracket Plate:
The bracket plate must be perfectly aligned with the engine block during its portion of the assembly. Secure the bracket using four 12mm bolts and a 12mm socket wrench. Once this is secured slide the clutch onto the drive shaft. During the process make sure the key and groove of the clutch line up. Secure the 12mm nut and washer onto the end of the drive shaft using the 12mm socket wrench.
Side view of Clutch
Chains and Clutch
Bracket Plate
Clutch, Bracket Plate and chains attached to engine block
Small chain:
Place the smaller train on to the clutch and the inner gear on the clutch bracket plate.
Clutch, Bracket Plate and chains attached to engine block

Secure the Engine block:

Place the engine back onto the frame. The engine is secured by 4 12mm screws locate at the bottom of the frame. Line the holes on the bottom of the engine block up with the wholes on the bottom of the frame. Once the engine is back in place, attach the large chain to the drive shaft and the drive gear.
Bare Frame
Engine on frame
Engine on frame bottom side view

Final Assembly Evaluation:

  • Our product runs as well as it did prior to disassembly. In fact, our bikes speed was increased by making minor adjustments to the throttle. We adjusted the max position of the throttle and increased the idle position to slightly below the clutch’s engaging rpm. In doing so the bike’s performance increased. Unfortunately, after reassembly we discovered that our headlight bulb was broken or malfunctioning. We also noticed that we would have to secure our cables to the frame using tape. We believe the headlight was broken when our disassembled bike pieces were moved by an unknown party in between group meetings. The headlight is not shattered or fractured in anyway, it just fails to illuminate.
  • The difference in assembly and disassembly can be found in the speed of both processes. Although the exact times were not documented, it took us approximately 4 days to fully disassemble the bike. Reassembly only took two group meetings. All the same tools were used for both processes. The only difference was the use of tape instead of sip ties.
  • It is necessary to consider that the pull start was incredibly difficult to reassemble. It should not be taken apart unless there is a problem with the mechanism. Upon reassembly, it should also be taken into consideration that the idle position for the throttle should not be too high. By not taking this into consideration the bike upon start may take off by itself.